Complete Suspension

Changed jobs and so I don't have the fancy Nikon digicam anymore, as you can probably tell. These were all taken with the video camera.

Note how the lower front part of the fender is folded under - when the wheels are turned too sharply, they drag that front sheet metal and bend it. The ride height is okay. The ride is not.

It would have been key to do the vented rotor conversion at the same time, but there were no funds. I spent about $500 for all the parts needed for this project. This includes 2 Ground Control coil overs with 150lb springs from CyberAuto, Lower ball joints and Tokico Performa struts from Carparts ($50 off coupon!), and poly bushings from Suspension Restoration and steering arms from Sloan, the local parts store. [Note to vendors I mentioned: Feel free to give me discounts on future purchases]

I am also switching to the larger front sway bar from the 280Z that I got from Bill Hanway (thanks again, Bill). In the near future I'll be installing the rear bar from that car as well.

Jacked up take off wheel
strut removed

Removed the strut. This involved removing the tie rod, the steering arm (I have new ones - expensive, $28 each!) so I had the luxury of just hammering it out of the spindle arm. Note: the driver's side steering arm is reverse threaded. I discovered this the hard way.

Then I removed the other 2 bolts in the control arm that hold the lower ball joint. I put the jack under the it and jacked it up a bit. My spring comressor would not fit in the tight coild of the spring, so I used some wire to try and hold the spring tight. Removed the three bolts at the top and let the jack down. The wiring job on one side of the spring was lame, so when I removed the strut nut (I'm sure there's some kind of technical term for it), that side gave and it shot the isolator and thrust bearing into the fence. Oh well. I didn't even bother wiring the passenger side spring. I used an air powered impact wrench. I think it would be pretty hard to get that nut off without one. I think this entire job would actually be much bigger pain in the ass without air tools.

Complete strut Clean strut
no perch

When grinding off the old perch, I tried to grind at the sheetmetal right above the weld. That way I was able to minimize the amount of grinding to the actual strut tube. After hammering off the perch, I was then able to grind down the weld. Switched to a flap disk and smoothed it out. Then I switched to the wire wheel to clean all the crap off of it.

I'd guess my little DeWalt angle grinder has easily 5000 hours on it. An indespensible tool.

Anyway, the difficult to reach areas were hit with a sand blaster. All of the part that came off the car got the same treatment: wire wheel, sand blast, solvent and then paint. I'm planning to scrub the grime off the rack with tide and a brush - not looking forward to that.

The next page will show the new perch welded on - but that has to wait until I actually get to that. So far I've spent about 8 solid hours on this particular project.

I used one of the crappy "t-tops" from the parts car as a blast shield. Worked pretty well.

On to the next page, back to the main 240Z page, or back to



All images Copyright 2000, Jeremy Roth, All rights reserved.